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Rites of Passages: The Journey From Childhood to Adulthood of My Friend Basilio.

  • Writer: Marga Lau
    Marga Lau
  • Feb 12, 2021
  • 3 min read

Updated: Feb 16, 2021


The most significant events of my life have always come in moments that I could expect not predict in any way, all of them being part of the circle of life: death, birth, and love. What I thought was a typical Sunday morning, became one of the deepest and most significant experiences I ever lived and I will never forget.



A Marriage Under The Stars

I was invited to a wedding from a native tribe. Two things completely took me by surprise: the ceremony was going to be that same day and it would take place in a remote area, a sacred place, homeland of an ancient tribe where the desert sand began to take over the forest, with rivers that have run dry and lagoons that never will.


Sacred lagoon or Jezuama, this water never runs dry.


Basilio, two years ago


I met my friend Basilio and his family three years ago. He was an extremely shy young boy as much as every other child can be; four days ago he turned from a boy into a man. I was having my breakfast wearing pyjamas when I saw his parents Francisca and Manuel coming towards me. They had walked for hours from their “finca” in the jungle in Sierra Nevada to pick me up and take me to Seyamuke, a village from their Wiwa tribe.






I remember the day I first saw Francisca as if it was yesterday, we became very good friends over the last three years, she has always been very friendly, welcoming and willing to share her traditions, way of life and beliefs. Wiwa tribes have lived in a harmonious and intimate relationship with nature for countless ages and my talks with her or anyone from her family have always impacted profoundly my western vision of the world.



Abu (Mother) Francisca, my friend.


When we arrived at the village, the Saga, spiritual leader, also healer, and counselor from the community received me with arms wide open, dressed in a clean white dress with a red shawl over her shoulders, such a beautiful smile and perfect hair. What has always deeply touched my heart is the pure innocence that shines out of their eyes, especially the children; every time I look at them, I feel things that are hard to describe or sketch with words.





Wiwa tribe's weddings are celebrated in community villages built for this purpose. The celebrations are not simple weddings but have a much deeper meaning. Those rites of passages ceremonies seeks to direct the fire in the heart that innately inflames with the changes of physical maturity, and is addressed to serve the family and society. Basilio was a sweet child that loved to feed his birds and dogs, still ignorant about the manners and arts of physical intimacy. The morning right after the ceremony, with the sun coming out from the temple, he would have risen and transformed into an adult man. Witnessing this incredible wedding I could not help but take pictures with a couple of tears of joy in my eyes.



Francisca cooking Nozzy

The ceremony lasted three days and three nights in which the Mamos (spiritual leaders and healers are considered fathers to all the members of their communities) and the city council longly advised Basilio about what is to have a family and being in charge of his wife.



For his first marriage, although Basilio has no idea about the mechanics of sex life, he will be soon given with an elder woman, a widow that will play the role of tutor, teaching the things he still doesn't know. Her name is Margarita, she is 33 years old and has two children. Basilio is now in charge of them as she must be for him a supportive partner and loyal companion for at least one year. If they both develop a mutual connection and feelings for each other, they can choose to stay together, if it doesn't work for them, they can always separate in friendly terms to continue their lives and have a second and permanent marriage with someone they choose for love.



Day 1 - To be continued...



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